Lake Tahoe- a Paradise on the Earth

Famous American writer Mark Twain wrote the following beautiful lines about Lake Tahoe:  

“…the Lake burst upon us—a noble sheet of blue water lifted six thousand three hundred feet above the level of the sea and walled in by a rim of snow-clad mountain peaks that towered aloft full three thousand feet higher still! As it lay there with the shadows of the mountains brilliantly photographed upon its still surface, I thought it must surely be the fairest picture the whole earth affords. The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine. Bracing and delicious. And why shouldn’t it be? It is the same the angels breathe.”

We were very fortunate to visit this famous and only of its kind lake in the world. We got this opportunity during the summer of 2023. Our daughter Trisha planned a three-day trip to Lake Tahoe in California, USA. It is around 4 hours’ drive from San Jose. Most of the road passes through forests and hills. Whole landscape all along was very picturesque. There were few stretches with steep gradients, but overall drive was very smooth and enjoyable. Even after 4 hours’ drive you do not feel tired because of well designed, constructed and maintained roads. We started in the morning and reached by lunch time. As we approached the lake the first sight of the lake from the car itself was breathtaking. We stopped at several viewpoints and clicked photos before settling down in a beautiful Airbnb apartment just few steps away from the lake.

Lake Tahoe is a freshwater lake in the Sierra Nevada of the Western United States, straddling the border between California and Nevada. Lying at 6,225 ft (1,897 m) above sea level, Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America, and at 122,160,280-acre ft (150.7 km3) it trails only the five Great Lakes as the largest by volume in the United States. Its depth is 1,645 ft (501 m), making it the second deepest in the United States after Crater Lake in Oregon (1,949 ft or 594 m). The lake is so large that its surface is noticeably convex due to the curvature of the Earth. At lake level the opposing shorelines are below the horizon at its widest parts; by one hundred feet (30 m) at its maximum width, and by some 320 feet (98 m) along its length. Lake Tahoe is fed by sixty-three tributaries. These drain an area about the same size as the lake and produce half its water, the other half by direct precipitation. The Truckee River is the lake's only outlet, flowing northeast through Reno, Nevada, into Pyramid Lake which has no outlet. The lake is considered to be formed about two million years ago as part of the Lake Tahoe Basin, and its modern extent was shaped during the ice ages. It is known for the clarity of its water and the panorama of surrounding mountains on all sides. The area surrounding the lake is also called as Lake Tahoe, or simply Tahoe. It is a major tourist attraction in both Nevada and California. It is home to winter sports, summer outdoor recreation, and scenery enjoyed throughout the year. Approximately two-thirds of the shoreline of the lake is in California.

While I was always struggling to pronounce the name “Tahoe” I came across what Mark Twain wrote about the name of this lake. He wrote in the Territorial Enterprise Newspaper about what Lake Tahoe should be called:

“I hope some bird will catch this Grub the next time he calls Lake Bigler by so disgustingly sick and silly a name as “Lake Tahoe…” Of course, Indian names are more fitting than any others for our beautiful lakes and rivers, which knew their race ages ago, perhaps, in the morning of creation, but let us have none so repulsive to the ear as “Tahoe” for the beautiful relic of fairyland forgotten and left asleep in the snowy Sierras when the little elves fled from their ancient haunts and quitted the earth. “Tahoe” – it sounds as weak as soup for a sick infant. “Tahoe” be – forgotten!” 

Nestled high in the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Tahoe’s water is vast, azure, blue, and clear waters like any swimming pool. We could see water as far our eyes could see. There were snowcapped mountains all around. Water was very clean. One can see up to 25 m depth. There was nip in the air. Temperature even during the month of May was quite low. We had to wear jackets even in daytime. It was quite cold in the morning & nights. Air was pure and invigorating as if borrowed from the heavens themselves. It is so fresh that you could feel it in the lungs. The lake’s surface mirrors the surrounding mountains, creating a perfect, tranquil reflection that captivates the soul. It feels so good to sit on wooden benches on the beach and enjoy the nature. Swimming & water sports are also permitted here but usually we avoid such activities. However, we did a boat cruise which was really very interesting, educative, and enjoyable. They usually cover all important points including Fannette Island in the Emerald Bay. It was a guided trip. They provided so much interesting facts and stories about Lake Tahoe. Interestingly they also serve hard/soft drinks and snacks. On boat we met people of so many nationalities. It only shows how popular Lake Tahoe is.  

The view overlooking Emerald Bay State Park is Lake Tahoe’s most iconic – and “one of the most photographed locations on earth.” While it is awe-inspiring at any time, its location on the southwest corner of the lake makes it a great spot to experience sunrise. Luckily, the weather was quite good during our trip with bright sunny days. On the eastern side of the Sierra where Carson City sits, one can experience the relentless wind known as the “Washoe wind”. It is very fascinating to read what Mark Twain wrote on the summer winds at Lake Tahoe.

“It was two o’clock, now, and according to custom the daily “Washoe Zephyr” set in…  a Washoe wind is by no means a trifling matter. It blows flimsy houses down, lifts shingle roofs occasionally, rolls up tin ones like sheet music, now and then blows a stagecoach over and spills the passengers; and tradition says the reason there are so many bald people there is, that the wind blows the hair off their heads while they are looking skyward after their hats.”

Fannette Island is the only island in Lake Tahoe. It lies within Emerald Bay on the California side of the lake. Over a long period of time, it was called by many different names, including Coquette, Fanette, Baranoff, Dead Man's, Hermit's, and Emerald Isle. Fannette Island is a part of Emerald Bay State Park. It is accessible by boat, canoe, or kayak. Swimming to the island is not allowed, due to hazards including extremely cold waters and boat traffic in the area. The ruins of a small stone building stand on the island. The ruin is called the "Tea House," constructed by Mrs. Lora Josephine Knight, the former owner of Vikingsholm. Fannette Island was the home of Captain Dick "Them's my toes" Barter from 1863 to 1873. The eccentric captain had moved from England and built his own tomb and chapel on the island. He enjoyed sailing but almost died when caught in a sudden storm rowing back to the island. He survived by tying himself to his dinghy and riding out the storm. Unfortunately, he got frostbite in two toes and earned his nickname from his penchant of showing his self-amputated toes to guests. This is a very interesting story, and it is narrated by the guide during boat cruise in a very fascinating style.

I also tried to compare Lake Tahoe with famous Indian Dal Lake of Kashmir and Man Sarovar Lake which is in China. Dal lake is very much smaller in surface area & depth. However, elevation of both lakes is comparable, but Dal Lake is slightly at lower elevation. Man Sarovar lake is also smaller in surface area and depth, but it is at much higher elevation of 4590 m in comparison to 1897 m of Lake Tahoe. All three are freshwater lakes. If the water of Lake Tahoe is spread evenly over the state of California, it will cover the state to a depth of 37 centimeters.

These three days were very fulfilling and rejuvenating as it was a very well-planned trip. Trisha was the planner, host & guide all rolled in one. Memories of Lake Tahoe will last forever.

[ MANOJ MITTAL, NOIDA, October 5, 2024]

NOTE: Many facts & figures regarding Lake Tahoe have been taken from various internet sources.